Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai has a way of feeling familiar.
The city has changed over times. Nimmanhaemin Road, once lined with mom-and-pop shops, is now filled with cafés, restaurants, and a new mall. But even with these shifts, Chiang Mai still holds on to the qualities that make it one of Thailand’s most grounding destinations, a place to slow down, retreat from the noise, and find a sense of calm.
If you look past the slightly kitschy marketing slogan used to promote Thai tourism - the “4S”: Saneh, Sabai, Sanook, and Sut Saep - you’ll find that these ideas actually capture Chiang Mai exceptionally well.
Saneh (charming) can be found in the people. If you think the Bangkokian are nice, go up North. People there exude charm.
Sabai (chilling) is a way of life here. Slow living existed in Chiang Mai long before it became a global trend. Even the local accent moves more slowly, each word stretching a little longer. Conversations sound softer, warmer, more soothing.
Sanook (fun) is present everywhere – from the bustle of the city center to various outdoor activities you can choose to do up in the mountains. Chiang Mai is also one of the best places to celebrate Thai new year and participate in arguably the world’s biggest water fight. When we lived there, we used to hire a pick-up truck, load the back of the truck with gallons of water and drive around town splashing people with water. Traditionally, though, the celebration began with gentle water pouring over elders’ hands or Buddha statues - a ritual of cleansing and good luck
Sut Saep (deliciousness) is essential here. Northern Thai cuisine offers dishes many visitors never encounter in standard Thai restaurants. In Chiang Mai, don’t miss:
Sai Oua: herb-packed pork sausage
Gaeng Hung Lae: rich, fragrant pork belly stew
Nam Prik Noom with Cap Moo: grilled green chili relish with crispy pork crackling
Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiao: rice noodles in a tomato-and-spice broth
Khao Soi: The region’s beloved curry noodle soup
Chiang Mai will continue to evolve, but we hope its heart remains the same: charming, slow, joyful, and endlessly delicious
SAVOR
หุบเขาคนโฉด: Bad Boy Valley - A hidden treasure and a charming 8 to 10-seater restaurant/B&B situated in the middle of nowhere. But trekking there is DEFINITELY worth the experience. Book in advance. You need a car to get there.
SS1254372 - a coffee shop/gallery space
Dam Rong in Warowot Market. (ร้านดำรงค์ ตลาดวโรรส เชียงใหม่) If you fancy buying Northern food home, this place sells the best Sai Oua according to many locals.
The Ironwood – Lovely restaurant for homemade food with a view of a little stream from Mae sa waterfall.
Mit Mai - No frills, simple and delcious Yunan food
เฮือนใจ๋ยอง (“Huen Jai Young” for local Lanna food)
Han Tueng Chiangmai ฮ้านถึงเจียงใหม่ is a street-side local shack serving authentic and delicious Northern food. Bring mosquito repellent, though the food is worth it.
SHOP
Prempacha’s collection Gorgeous ceramics straight from the factory.
Wit’s collection A simple shop with selection of well-curated items.
Thongma studio (right next to Ironwood). Khun Chamnian Thongma, a well-known local artist, specializes in making beautiful life-size sculptures. We love the contrast between the softness of the facial expressions on his work and the roughness of material. His beautiful studio is open to the public and includes a small coffee shop. Check opening times before you visit.
Baan Ngam Sang Duan บ้านงามแสงเดือน - Part coffee shop, part boutique shop. Beautiful fabrics and clothing are housed in this lovely Northern-style house. The owner bakes her own Thai desserts to serve with tea or coffee.